We’re still feeling the effects of jet lag. By 6 a.m., everyone is wide awake, so we decide to just get up and start the day. We make some pancakes and have a relaxed breakfast. Outside, things aren’t looking particularly promising. It rained for most of the night, with the occasional loud clap of thunder thrown in for good measure.
After picking up some groceries, we head towards our first national park of the trip: Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie. Quite a mouthful, but the name actually gives away exactly what awaits us. The park is famous for its deep valleys and spectacular rock walls, some of which are among the highest east of the Rocky Mountains. Cutting right through this dramatic landscape, the Rivière Malbaie winds its way between the mountains.
The park covers around 225 km² and was established in 2000. Thanks to the impressive changes in elevation, several different ecosystems can be found within a relatively small area — from deciduous forests in the valleys to mixed and boreal forests, and even vegetation typical of alpine tundra at higher elevations. In other words, Canada seems to have decided to put a little bit of everything into one park.
We choose Le Riverain, a 10.2 km hiking trail that follows the Rivière Malbaie and offers beautiful views across the valley, including the impressive Cran des Érables. A perfect introduction to Canadian wilderness.
The weather still isn’t exactly cooperating. The wind is howling, but at least the rain has stopped. With good spirits, hiking boots and jackets on, we set off.
The trail takes us through dense forest. So dense, in fact, that around kilometre 5 we decide that finding a “nature toilet” might be our best option. Ten metres later, an official toilet sign appears out of nowhere.
Perfect timing... almost suspiciously perfect.
After about an hour of hiking, it’s time for a picnic. We claim a table and settle down for lunch. Afterwards, the trail starts climbing. Because apparently, if you want a great view, you have to earn it first.
And it’s absolutely worth the effort.
Suddenly, the forest opens up and we’re rewarded with a spectacular view over the valley. The Rivière Malbaie seems to wind endlessly between the mountains. The combination of the towering rock walls, endless greenery and winding river makes it immediately obvious why this park is so special.
There’s just one small problem.
Someone forgot to turn off the wind.
It’s blowing so hard that we don’t stay at the viewpoint for very long. We almost feel like we’re about to become part of the landscape ourselves and get blown straight down into the valley.
Along the way, Janne has to deal with a minor clothing crisis. Luckily, another toilet appears at exactly the right moment, and the problem is quickly solved. So far, Canada is not only treating us to incredible scenery, but also to remarkably well-placed toilets.
Le Riverain eventually brings us to the campsite, where an old school bus takes us back to the entrance. Not a bad way to finish our first Canadian hike.
As we ride back, we realise that Canada has already made quite an impression on us. Huge landscapes, deep valleys, forests stretching as far as the eye can see, fierce winds — and, apparently, toilets that have an uncanny sense of timing.
We grab a quick Pepsi and a flavoured water before heading back.
Jet lag or not, our first day of hiking in Canada is definitely a success.
